The project began with Simon's interest in the contrasting styles of the great tailors. So he set out on a project: to make a piece with 25 of them, photograph all of them in studio conditions, and then analyse the differences. The results are fascinating.
By picking apart everything from shoulder width to jacket length, lapel style to buttoning point, he demonstrates how each tailor achieves contrasting effects.
Simon also worked with an expert tailor, to analyse how the structure of each jacket varies - how the canvas and the shoulder padding inside affect the silhouette. And between them they took a consistent set of measurements, to enable precise comparison. It’s hard to imagine a more comprehensive guide for someone interested in a bespoke suit.
Simon has also used his years of experience covering bespoke to explain the historical and cultural reasons behind the differences, dividing the book into different regions to reflect those influences.
And he concludes with an impassioned argument for bespoke tailoring as the ultimate men’s craft. Something that needs preserving now more than ever.
The book is hardback, runs to 188 pages, and is full colour throughout.
